Question on inside of rocker panels and still looking for Rocker Panels.. - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

mercifiknow · #1 08-31-2021, 02:44 PM

I'm still looking for rocker panels for my '70 250C W114 model. They are completely gone and don't have a way to fab the correct contour. I've tried K&K Mfg (per MB Classic Car Center) and Niemoller will not answer. Any help is appreciated but not Chinese junk...

Although maybe I could get the contour that way and make my own...

Does my model have a jacking point (tube) or not because mine are gone if they do? Anyone have photos of the structure of this area without the rockers? The sheetmetal is i believe 20 ga. and can try and fab some up but this is tough again while not knowing contour or structure behind the outside rocker panel.

Thanks for all the help as usual!

rumb · #2 08-31-2021, 08:31 PM

https://www.millsupply.com/auto-body-rust-repair-panels/mercedes/w114-chassis/1968-1976/68-76-mercedes-w114-chassis-rocker-panel-2626840l.php
that is for 4 door, you can prob cut them to fit 2 door.

The jack point you can fab with sheet metal and a pipe yourself once you see what it looks like.

cth350 · #3 09-01-2021, 12:57 AM

There's an inner and outer rocker. The inner is part of the floor.
The coupe and sedan use fundamentally the same repair parts.

If you really like to weld, do the above (as your "make my own..." comment suggests).
If you are paying somebody else to do it, strongly consider a different car that doesn't need the same fix.

-CTH

mercifiknow · #4 09-01-2021, 11:20 AM

Sales department at KKmfg said they were not the same (coupe vs sedan) when I asked before I asked on the forum. So I would think that the sedan is longer and if true then I would cut a section out and butt weld it together again. Am I missing something?

At the worst I can use one of them for proper contour and trim hole placement.

There are jacking points available for various models and I think the sedan is one but will need to verify that. Also I’ll try and take some photos of the rust area. Are any other models that would offer the same configuration?

Thanks for the help as always and be on the lookout for the photos!

Mike D · #5 09-01-2021, 02:35 PM

The panels are the same length. The cut outs for the doors are different. Two doors versus four doors. They have the same curvatures.

Mike D · #6 09-01-2021, 04:00 PM

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/bodywork-repair-paint-tools-tips-tricks/339888-w114-rocker-panel-repair.html

mercifiknow · #7 09-02-2021, 12:49 PM

Thanks Mike!

But now I’m worried… mine are gone and the link state the rockers are structurally needed. They’re like this now for a few years. Thoughts on how to make sure my problem is now really bad?

mercifiknow · #8 09-02-2021, 01:23 PM

Thanks Mike!

But now I’m worried… mine are gone and the link state the rockers are structurally needed. They’re like this now for a few years. Thoughts on how to make sure my problem is now really bad?

rumb · #9 09-02-2021, 02:48 PM

I think the inner rocker is the structural element. If you are worried then weld some bars across the door opening to keep everything in place while you replace the outers.

You dont have to cut every portion of the old panel out on the car to make the entire rocker replacement. You can cut wide margins around things and then cut the patch panel to fit. You can end up creating some real problems if you attempt to install an entire outer rocker, as some bits go over and under other parts. You will end up with much easier to access welding points this way.

mercifiknow · #10 09-02-2021, 06:21 PM

I think there is only 2” on each end of the rockers. The rest went up in a red poof when I accidentally hit the drivers side with a crutch getting moving around the car. I kid you not!

Red poof!

After that, the rest of the rocker fell on the floor in piles. I checked the other side and same thing. When I bought it I put in on a lift and was checked out and they were fine then but 2 years later they were on the floor. Obviously the rust didn’t deteriorate them instantly. But I beat them pretty good but not sure what happened.

I think I’ll just get some metal and make some repairs to shore it up until I can take it in to do the body work in the restoration process. Again I’ll post some photos soon.

mercifiknow · #11 09-02-2021, 06:26 PM

Mike,
Is the sheet metal thickness 18 or 20 ga.? I heard it was 20ga but noticed in your repair you used 18.

Thanks for the help all of you!

Mike D · #12 09-03-2021, 08:26 AM

Originally 18GA., or at least that is what I mic'ed it to be. Of course there is a reasonable margin of error on my part when you consider the curve and paint on the part I measured. Anything thicker is a real bear to work without the proper tools/skills.

New parts are probably 20 GA. A new stamped part, even using a slightly thinner metal, will be plenty strong when you consider the forming of the shape adds strength.

The very first thing you need to do is determine the extent of the rust. The second is to discover what caused the rust. Third is to remediate the cause.

Are you able to post pictures? They will greatly help in deciding what course of actions you should/can take.