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  #1  
Old 02-16-2004, 12:41 AM
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Location: norte de californie
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differences between early/late 114/115

i have been looking for a 1973-76 114/115. i want to put
a turbo diesel in it. i might buy a 230/6 which the
owner thinks is a '71 but i think is a 67-68. no headrests,
chrome seat braces, snap on fuse box top and hooked
heater control wires at the firewall, three way light switch
ect.
couple of concerns:

i like 115's because of thier looks,
interior and handling. especially the handling. will this older,
type I handle like a newer type II ?

it has a collume auto shifter. will it be diffecult to mate with
the newer 722.3xx trans ? (i have a 4spd manual out of a
'77 240 i would like to mate to it, but i cant worry about
this until i find an engine)

are the throttle connections going to be a nightmare?

this car is older than i wanted, but the owner cant get it
started and the deputy is threating to tow it (and its '71
250 parts car) so i will get it cheap. its only rust is in
the drivers pan drain holes and on the hood above a bad
brake cylinder. the body is perfect, the paint near excellent,
underbody rubber looks fair. the interior is dark straw, almost
flawless with firm seats (and moldy). the dash is brown
without a single crack. no a/c, manual doors, manual windows,
no wood.

i think the defroster is bad. i think i am crazy.

don

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  #2  
Old 02-16-2004, 10:35 AM
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My info on the 115 is that it is basically identical to the 114, but with some additional welds and reinforcement to make it better for heavy-duty use like police and taxi.

You can generally put in any combination of engine or trans that was offered with the car. Like a 230 gas or 240 or 300 diesel or even a 280 gas. You step into uncharted water with a turbodiesel, though, because to my knowledge, that engine was never offered in the 114/115.
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Falls Church VA
'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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  #3  
Old 02-16-2004, 11:55 AM
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Location: Tucson, Arizona, USA
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Don,
I have a '75 240D manual (was a taxi imported from Germany) in much better shape than what you are looking at (daily driver), but still has the classic rusted pan (and broken speedo). To a good home, I would sell it at the cost of transportation--but I am in AZ. PM me if you are interested in the details. Cheers, Andrew Seidel.
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  #4  
Old 02-17-2004, 01:01 PM
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Posts: 150
114 is the 6 cyl version
115 is th 5 cyl version

manual box will go straight in - the cutout inn the chassis is the same - as is the pedal box cutouts (clutch hole is there on an auto)

propshafts are diferent - as probably are diffs - but thery are interchangeable as regards bolt holes (very easy job as well - diff held in with iirc 4 bolts from the trunk / boot.

throttle linkage easy. manual has ball joints for take off to gearbox, auto just has them connected. ditto vacuum pipes

as regards flywheels / torque converters - dont know off the top of my head.

late (post 73/4) have ribbed rear light lenses, early have smooth ones. late ones look a bit w123 esque.

advice - take out gearbox, subframe and engine as one. DO NOT TRY TO SEPARATE GEARBOX FROM ENGINE - genuine mb manual states you need 4 feet of extension bars.... technically possible, but not worth it

gearbox lever - lift the carpet where you expect to see the gearlever - is there a plate there? if so - no problem in fitting. if no hole - then im surprised, and i could give you photos / dimentions to help.
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Old 02-17-2004, 01:19 PM
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Good advice from Guy.

The plate is there on column shift cars, held in with four bolts. Even the console has scoring around the cut-out for the floor shift.

I have a spare trans if you are interested.
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'66 200, '66 230SL, '96 SL500. Sold: '81 380SL, '86 300E, '72 250C, '95 C220, 3 '84 280SL's '90 420SEL, '72 280SE, '73 280C, '78 280SE, '70 280SL, '77 450SL, '85 380SL, '87 560SL, '85 380SL, '72 350SL, '96 S500 Coupe
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  #6  
Old 02-17-2004, 07:30 PM
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Location: Bay Area No Calif.
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notlostmaybe, forget a tubo engine, interference between the oil filter cannister and the steering box makes it unfeasible.
A 280 with fuel injection would be my choice for a W115.
Anybody have a 300D nonturbo ? I need one for an ailing '76.
DDH
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Old 02-17-2004, 07:35 PM
dieseldiehard's Avatar
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i think the defroster is bad. i think i am crazy

you gotta be crazy. FWIW, I must be likewise!
My '71 220 needs one as does my '76 300D likewise. I plan to install a like new dash in the '71 and send the motor to be re-bushed/ new brushes when I get to that project.
DDH
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  #8  
Old 02-18-2004, 12:11 AM
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dont know if i will get the car. the owner got a bird in the bush
offer 10 or so days ago, no contact since, but is opptomistic.
he is actually trying to get rid of three cars, the other being
a 74 280 m110. it might run, but it is gross and i am afraid to touch it
i like the car more and more though. it is simple and everything
looks to be in good shape. the defroster/heater fan problem
might be just a broken knob, the knob pulls out.
there is definetly a stick cutout in the trans tunnel.

he had parked the car because of weak brakes and now
it wont start. the engine is probably good, maybe very
good. the reason i dont want a gasser is because i am an
idiot with gassers and i just like diesels.

dieseldiehard:

i was hoping to move the oil filter on a turbo, but looking at the way it is attached, that wont be easy, unless the oil filter
setup from an older one is possible.

guydewdney:

i swear i will never take out a tranny seperate from the
engine ever again!! less than 2 hours to get it out,
15+ hours to it it back in. of course swearing to not
do something again is foolish

don
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  #9  
Old 02-18-2004, 07:46 PM
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Dieseldiehard
 
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Location: Bay Area No Calif.
Posts: 4,310
i was hoping to move the oil filter on a turbo...

notsolostmaybe, if you figure out how to do this (economically, that is) let me know!
W114/115's have the oil filter cannister mounted under the engine, making changing filters a PITA. I hate changing them! Not only do you have to get under the car, preferably jacking it up a bit, but when you do remove the center bolt that holds the cannister on, oil drips down all over you, I wrap a plastic bag over my arm, in addition to the latex gloves I always wear whenever I work on nearly ANYTHING on a diesel! messy, messy, messy!
W123 diesel filter cans are a great improvement. Just how to move the filter requires making a plate that separates inlet oil from return oil and has pipe fittings for both, as well as a port for oil gauge line, then where does one put the remote filter? Don't plan on using a small spin-on filter if you do get that far, diesels need a huge oil filter, the bigger the better.
This sounds like a big design challenge to me.
Why don't you just find a nice W123 300D turbo somewhere?
DDH

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