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#1
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Does a 73.1mm to 66.6mm bore adapter require a bolt pattern spec??
Hey all,
i've got some wheels picked out, and they are 73.1mm bore so require a 73.1mm to 66.6mm bore adapter (standard w123 size, i have gathered). https://www.amazon.com/Hubcentric-Rings-Pack-Aluminum-Centerbore/dp/B00DIK3R40#customerReviews I thought i had it all figured out, but looking at that specific item I am now confused about one thing... There is a spec in the info that says the "Bolt Pattern (Pitch Circle Diameter)... 114.3mm" Before seeing this, i was under the impression that the bolts had no relation to the bore. The rings appear to just rest in the bore. Why would the bolt spacing be related? Is this a mistake in the listing? Or do i need to find a hubcentric bore adapter ring that is 73.1 to 66.6 but also the standard 112mm bolt distance of w123? |
#2
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Looks to be superfluous info, the rings will work just fine.
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90 300TE 4-M Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim T04B cover .60 AR Stage 3 turbine .63 AR A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control 3" Exh, AEM W/B O2 Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys, Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster. 3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start 90 300CE 104.980 Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression 197° intake cam w/20° advancer Tuned CIS ECU 4° ignition advance PCS TCM2000, built 722.6 600W networked suction fan Sportline sway bars V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff |
#3
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thanks!! i was hoping so
one other question.. do adapter rings introduce any offset into the equation? Or do they just slide inside and have no impact on the spacing...? |
#4
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They just center the wheel on the hub.
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90 300TE 4-M Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim T04B cover .60 AR Stage 3 turbine .63 AR A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control 3" Exh, AEM W/B O2 Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys, Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster. 3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start 90 300CE 104.980 Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression 197° intake cam w/20° advancer Tuned CIS ECU 4° ignition advance PCS TCM2000, built 722.6 600W networked suction fan Sportline sway bars V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff |
#5
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ok thanks.
do you happen to know if 1985 300D's and 300TD's have the same exact wheel spacing? I found a wheel that i like and the manufacturer site has the 85 300TD listed as a compatible vehicle but there is no other mention of the 300 series. All the same? |
#6
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Quote:
In this context, what does the term "wheel spacing" mean to you? Track width? Offset of the rim centerline from the mounting flange? Etc. |
#7
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195/70 tire 14 x 6 wheel 30 offset NEW SETUP: 195/60 tire 16 x 6.5 wheel 38 offset I guess i'm most interested in confirming that the wheel/tire inner side will not have any chance of making contact with the suspension during full turns or other extreme motions. It's not much different. The outward facing aspects, and the overall height, are nearly the same. The inner facing aspects are in a little bit so they are my concern. The wheel manufacturer has 1985 300TD in their list of confirmed fitment. Mind you, this drawing of suspension is just a dummy, so can't be used as a visual guide. I'm only showing the wheel comparison here. |
#8
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300:
Based on the given wheel dimensions, the stated 14.4mm inward move of the inboard rim is correct; the most likely points of interference would be between the outboard steering rod ends and the tire/rim. |
#9
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So here is the current sizing below, along with new image.. NEW: 195/55/16 But as for the steering rod connection just inside from the wheel.. is it the red arrow in image below? And does this distance from wheel stay put during all operation? If i were to do a test install of one wheel... if it clears this rod point, then it's fine? I feel like it's going to clear upon install, since i am in touch with someone who has on a wheel with even a tiny bit more inner reach than the 14.4 of my possible setup (they have 17.7 and say it just barely clears), and also the wheel manufacturer of the wheel i want says 300TD fits, which i believe is the same? I suppose i could just order one wheel and have the shop put it on even without the tire on. I've also considering ordering an impact wrench and trying this myself! |
#10
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At the risk of introducing a radical idea, have you considered measuring the existing wheel/tire-to-rod end clearance and subtracting 14.4mm?
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#11
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So i guess that joint segment itself always maintains the same distance in relation to the wheel, throughout all driving? If so, i can grab my measuring tape when the heavy rain stops !! |
#12
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The rain stopped, so i got down and measured. Then i realized that the reason that i have been eyeballing less than the necessary space needed is because... i probably have 6.5 inch wheels and not 6 inch wheels!! I had been under the impression that all Bundt 14's were 6 inches. But, some are 6.5. So here's my stupid question... What is the best way to measure the rim size while it has an inflated tire on it? I have ordered the wheels and tires. If my wheel is in fact 6.5 inches, then based on my real life measurements i'm all set. But if my current wheel is actually 6 inches somehow, then i am 50% certain I will need to order spacers. I can hold up a ruler/measuring tape and eyeball the width of the wheel but it's a bit inaccurate seeming to do it this way. Is there a size/model indication somewhere on the rim? I apologize if this is just plain annoying !! |
#13
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Quote:
2) Clean enough of the inside of the wheel to read the cast-in/stamped size information in this format: 6J x 14 H2 ET30, 61/2J x 14 H2 ET30 |
#14
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Shoot i just posted in the wrong thread.. update..
I don’t have the equipment for removing wheels right now. Every time I try they are too stuck. And when someone comes to do it, it proves to be a massive effort. Even if they’ve been busted loose in recent months already. So I can’t take my wheel off to look for label. I got down under and couldn’t find any indications of label. Anyone know exactly where it is so I can have a chance finder with this method? Or is it just too deep in to look? I guess i could swing by some shop to have them take off for a moment. Also, somehow i haven't found the right tool... what is the name of the giant long wrench to get this bolts loose? I've had three flats in the past four or five months, since i'm running on old tires. Hence my motivation to get new stuff. Each time the roadside assistance came out they were forced to used wrenches with arms that were over two feet long and they were not extension type arms that pulled out, they were solid. What is the name of these things? I will buy one of those, and a proper torque wrench for getting the torque correct when putting back on, and then I be equipped for doing my own wheel stuff. |
#15
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You need a lug wrench or a breaker bar with a deep 17mm socket. If the lugs are really on there, get yourself a 3' long piece of 3/4" pipe and slip over the handle to act as a cheater. You should be able to break them loose.
If you have a shop do the work in the future, take the cheater handle with you and use it to beat the technician if they use a rattle gun to reinstall your lugs. The sizing of the stock wheels is cast into the backside. When you get it off and flip it over to look you'll find it. You may need to clean the wheel if it's got a really heavy layer of road grime. |
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