Additions:
Removing the seats and the hat shelf are self-explanatory. Why the hat shelf? Because the corner of the upper and lower side trim panels tuck under that raised corner of the shelf. And when you finessing the pieces back in you’ll wonder "Why didn’t I take out those two screws and get this thing out of my way?"
**9)** Remove the lock clip per 67-400 step 4. This is a PITA to loosen and free up. I used a small set of vise grips to compress the regulator arm onto the guide plate, then a 90 degree awl to pull the clip off. I used a similar technique to reinstall. NOTE: There is a washer behind the regulator arm. Odds are it will fall off and into the window well. A telescoping magnet is also a good tool to have. The washers on the left and right side appeared to be "dished" to different levels, probably from torque. It looked like the wide part of the "cone" went against the regulator and the skinny part against the guide plate. If someone else does this repair and sees different, post the correction in the thread as an update to Step 9.
**11)** If you have large hands you may need to undo the three nuts that hold the regulator in place in order to grasp the slide rail. I did it both ways, once disconnecting the regulator, the second time without. Fish around in there, find the rail and pull down with one hand while holding onto the window with the other hand. It’ll slide away from the "guide jaw" and cause the loose-friction fit rectangular plastic cap to pop off. Remember to fish around inside and find that cap before reassembling.
**12)** Getting the glass out was a bit fidgety. Lower the glass to get it off the rear seal, then pull it outwards and upwards and forward. I was unable to simply "Lift quarter window glass forward out of the shell" as described in step 8 without getting it clear of the rubber at the top.
**18)** A helper would be really handy upon reassembly. Someone needs to slide the window back in – rear first, angling in and down, then over the guide jaw, then down while "outside" the rubber seal and finally back up to fit inside the rubber. Then, while it’s holding itself up, finagle the newly greased slider into the sidewall and up onto the guide jaw in the correct orientation. Then, while those parts hold themselves together, line up the upper hole and insert a 10 mm bolt with washer into the hole. Then, while gravity is still suspended and the parts stay in place by themselves, slide the guide plate onto the window glass and insert a bolt. After this point friction and geometry should take over and keep the glass in place. The "open" side of the slide is on the outboard side. It’s a hassle to have to pull it out mid-insertion with the glass in place and rotate it around. A magnetic tipped 10 mm nut driver is very useful here.
**9)** Remove the lock clip per 67-400 step 4. This is a PITA to loosen and free up. I used a small set of vise grips to compress the regulator arm onto the guide plate, then a 90 degree awl to pull the clip off. I used a similar technique to reinstall. NOTE: There is a washer behind the regulator arm. Odds are it will fall off and into the window well. A telescoping magnet is also a good tool to have. The washers on the left and right side appeared to be "dished" to different levels, probably from torque. It looked like the wide part of the "cone" went against the regulator and the skinny part against the guide plate. If someone else does this repair and sees different, post the correction in the thread as an update to Step 9.
**11)** If you have large hands you may need to undo the three nuts that hold the regulator in place in order to grasp the slide rail. I did it both ways, once disconnecting the regulator, the second time without. Fish around in there, find the rail and pull down with one hand while holding onto the window with the other hand. It’ll slide away from the "guide jaw" and cause the loose-friction fit rectangular plastic cap to pop off. Remember to fish around inside and find that cap before reassembling.
**12)** Getting the glass out was a bit fidgety. Lower the glass to get it off the rear seal, then pull it outwards and upwards and forward. I was unable to simply "Lift quarter window glass forward out of the shell" as described in step 8 without getting it clear of the rubber at the top.
**18)** A helper would be really handy upon reassembly. Someone needs to slide the window back in – rear first, angling in and down, then over the guide jaw, then down while "outside" the rubber seal and finally back up to fit inside the rubber. Then, while it’s holding itself up, finagle the newly greased slider into the sidewall and up onto the guide jaw in the correct orientation. Then, while those parts hold themselves together, line up the upper hole and insert a 10 mm bolt with washer into the hole. Then, while gravity is still suspended and the parts stay in place by themselves, slide the guide plate onto the window glass and insert a bolt. After this point friction and geometry should take over and keep the glass in place. The "open" side of the slide is on the outboard side. It’s a hassle to have to pull it out mid-insertion with the glass in place and rotate it around. A magnetic tipped 10 mm nut driver is very useful here.
Deletions:
**9)** Remove the lock clip per 67-400 step 4. This is a PITA to loosen and free up. I used a small set of vise grips to compress the regulator arm onto the guide plate, then a 90 degree awl to pull the clip off. I used a similar technique to reinstall. NOTE: There is a washer behind the regulator arm. Odds are it will fall off and into the window well. A telescoping magnet is also a good tool to have. The washers on the left and right side appeared to be “dished†to different levels, probably from torque. It looked like the wide part of the “cone†went against the regulator and the skinny part against the guide plate. If someone else does this repair and sees different, post the correction in the thread as an update to Step 9.
**11)** If you have large hands you may need to undo the three nuts that hold the regulator in place in order to grasp the slide rail. I did it both ways, once disconnecting the regulator, the second time without. Fish around in there, find the rail and pull down with one hand while holding onto the window with the other hand. It’ll slide away from the “guide jaw†and cause the loose-friction fit rectangular plastic cap to pop off. Remember to fish around inside and find that cap before reassembling.
**12)** Getting the glass out was a bit fidgety. Lower the glass to get it off the rear seal, then pull it outwards and upwards and forward. I was unable to simply “Lift quarter window glass forward out of the shell†as described in step 8 without getting it clear of the rubber at the top.
**18)** A helper would be really handy upon reassembly. Someone needs to slide the window back in – rear first, angling in and down, then over the guide jaw, then down while “outside†the rubber seal and finally back up to fit inside the rubber. Then, while it’s holding itself up, finagle the newly greased slider into the sidewall and up onto the guide jaw in the correct orientation. Then, while those parts hold themselves together, line up the upper hole and insert a 10 mm bolt with washer into the hole. Then, while gravity is still suspended and the parts stay in place by themselves, slide the guide plate onto the window glass and insert a bolt. After this point friction and geometry should take over and keep the glass in place. The “open†side of the slide is on the outboard side. It’s a hassle to have to pull it out mid-insertion with the glass in place and rotate it around. A magnetic tipped 10 mm nut driver is very useful here.
