Ahh, yes, that rear bolt.

First you have to find it. This takes at least 20 minutes. But, I'll tell you how to shorten it to about five:

Lay down on top of the engine and peer over the space between the IP and the oil filter housing. Get a very strong light and look all the way down, very close to the spring return spring for the IP. You will see only the head of the bolt.

Time for the first beer and contemplation on how to get to it.

Go out and buy the longest possible 13mm box wrench you can find. It must be at least 10 inches to go from the point just behind the VCV all the way down to the head of the bolt.

Remove the rack dampener bolt on the back of the IP. You won't have enough swing room for the wrench unless you do a custom bend on it. Ask me how I know.

Lower away and carefully snag the head of the bolt and move the wrench away from the engine until it hits the oil cooler line. Remove wrench and repeat three times. The bolt is loose enough to allow the IP to rotate.

Tightening the bolt is easier. It's easier to snag the bolt head with the wrench right above the oil cooler line and move it closer to the engine.

The three bolts on the front of the IP are no problem as compared to the rear one. The inboard bolt is best accessed with about 12" of extensions, a 13mm socket, and a universal.

You must find and loosen that rear bolt. I was unsuccessful in reaching the proper IP timing with the bolt engaged.