Quote:
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Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
No sweat.
Each of those two lines from the black box runs to a "T", correct?
Take out each of those two lines and throw them away.
You now have (2) "T's" with an open hole on one side.
Remove one of the "T's" completely and throw it away.
Now, you have two hard plastic lines that had gone into each side of the "T".
Conncect the two hard plastic lines with a short section of vacuum hose.
Remove second "T", throw it away, and repeat the connection with the short piece of vacuum hose.
You are done.  |
OK Brian, I'm happy and confused at the same time.
I followed your steps at first, but they weren't clear enough so I was mislead. I started experiencing downshift "clunks" whenever I slowed down and stopped the car. So I drove the car back home, dug up your original post on this and followed those steps as well. Results?
Firstly, I am proud to announce that out of at least 12 different W126s I have driven, none shifts as smooth as my car does now. Shifts can't be felt at all anymore. You can only tell by looking at the tach and listening to the engine. Why? Not that I'm complaining, but did I heal some vacuum leaks by doing this? Why the smooth shifts all of a sudden?
Secondly, I see from your pic that the second line that comes from the firewall (from towards the fusebox) into the hood (the black line) is connected to the vacuum modulator. I left mine disconnected but the car shifts well under all driving situations. I did 2 miles in the city and 5 miles on the highway with no issues. So should I even bother connecting that black line to the vacuum modulator?