THE NUMBER ONE CULPRIT IS THE TOP OF EACH PIN CONNECTOR INSIDE THE SWITCH. This is the point where the metal swivel hits and makes the switch go on or off, up or down, etc., when you press it (picture 11). IF IT IS GRIMY, IT MAY BE YOUR PROBLEM. Use the pick to carefully scrape the dirt, carbon, whatever it is off until you see clean metal, but not further. Periodically shake the switch upside down to get out all the debris you have dislodged. Once you are satisfied that the inside of the switch and the swivel rails are impeccably clean, move on.

5. Clean the electrical actuators/metal swivels and ball bearings. Typically, after 20 or so years of service, the grease that Mercedes put in the middle of these metal swivels for the ball bearing will gum up, get crusty, and impair the operation of your switch. Use a Q-tip or similar cleaning tool to get all the dirt, grime, and old grease off of the metal swivels. PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO THE ENDS OF THE SWIVELS (picture 12). These are what actually come into contact with the pin connectors and transmit the charge. Rub the ball bearings clean. All bare metal should be visible. A de-greaser may be necessary for especially stubborn buildups, although I found scraping with the flat-head screwdriver provided better results. When finished, set all components aside.

6. Grease the electrical actuators/metal swivels. Using your flat-head screwdriver, scoop up a small dab of grease and apply this to the middle of the metal swivel, where it comes together in the bottom of the “v” shape (picture 13). Use the grease sparingly; this is not exactly a high-stress bearing and excess will clot up and make it nasty again.

7. Reassemble the unit. This is where the magnetic wand helps. Using the magnetic wand, lower each metal swivel into the body of the switch until the bottom of the “v” rests in the actuator rotation points (picture 14). Use the flat-head screwdriver the separate it from the magnetic wand and lightly make sure it is in place. If you are without the wand, you could use very small pliers or simply drop it into place (though that gets frustrating). Once the metal swivels are in place, drop each ball bearing into the “v,” where it should be sitting in its little dab of grease. Now that you have that positioned, take your switch face/plastic rocker and lower it evenly down into the switch body so that it rests on top of the ball bearings. Snap it into place. Test the movement of the switch. If something feels funny, remove the plastic rocker and check that everything is in place. Lower it back in carefully and straight down so that it engages the ball bearings.

8. Install the switch in vehicle. Orient the assembled switch into its original position and reattach the vehicle plugs to the pin connectors on the bottom of the switch. Slide the switch down into its spot. You do not need to depress the prongs.

Now your switch(es) should work like new! I’ve had great success with this procedure, and I hope you do too (mine were nasty, see picture 15). Best of luck!

Attached Thumbnails

         

__________________
"I would rather be ashes than dust!
I would rather that my spark should burn out in a brillaint blaze
than it should be stifled by dryrot.
I would rather be a superb meteor,
every atom of me in magnificent glow,
than a sleepy and permanent planet.
The proper function of man is to live, not to exist.
I shall not waste my days in trying to prolong them.
I shall use my time."

-Jack London 1876-1916

1983 300CDT (running WVO since 12/05)
1981 300SD (parts car)