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Old 10-10-2001, 09:38 PM
psfred psfred is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Evansville, Indiana
Posts: 8,150
Mike:

Adjust your valves. Also, upgrade to synthetic oil if you haven't, it helps keep rings free. Cetane rating (CTE) is like octane rating. 50 is good, but diesel fuels vary much more than gasoline. I cannot use Phillips 66 in my diesels -- huge smoke issues, and very poor power. Amoco, Shell, and Busler (the local discount dealer) work fine. Try and check, then use the one that works best. For wintertime, use truck stop diesel -- they blend for prevention of waxing, and not all other stations understand what it is -- diesel fuel "gels" or waxes up when it is cold (the specification is pour point, or the temperature at which you can no longer pour a sample out of a small brass container). You won't have too much trouble in Colorado, but here in the lower midwest, we get caught once in a while. The RedLine will help.

Also, check for leaks in the suction side of the fuel system. Bad hoses will allow air to get sucked in, and air in the injection pump will cause rough running, knocking, and smoke.

A plugged vent line could cause your idle problems. See previous post for a way to check.

Wagonboy:

MB pumps rarely need calibration unless dirty fuel got in them, or water. Or gasoline (eek!) -- it happens, I almost put diesel in the work truck today at a Shell station....! You might want to have it bench tested if you rebuild the engine. About the only think that goes wrong is a broken spring on the pressure valve, or leaks around the pressure vavle retainer. Easy to fix.

Peter
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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
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