Yep, definitely a PITA.

The inside part is the headlight door. You've first got to remove the turn signal assembly via the nylon knurled knob.

Then, the headlight door comes off via three nylon knurled knobs.

Then, the bezel around the headlight comes off via four screws that are almost impossible to see.......two above and two below the headlight.........from the front.

Finally, the bulb is in your hand.........after you unplug it from the rear.

Do yourself a favor........after all that work........get a set of the Euro lights from Hella with replacement H4 lamps. You still must go through all that work, but the light output from the H4's with a good set of reflectors is positively amazing.