Quote:
Originally Posted by SD Blue
Use a meter.
1)With a meter across the terminals, while running, you should be getting close to +14 VDC.
2)Then switch to VAC and you should be at less that 1 VAC.
If both #1 & #2 are true, then the rectifying diodes are gone and the alternator needs replacement.
If only #1 is true, then replace just the regulator.
Before doing any replacement, be sure and check all of your battery and alternator connections including the terminal strip. Also, the Batt-Chassis & Chassis-Eng. ground straps.  |
Is there a typo here? If #1 is true, the voltage regulator should be fine.
If #1 and #2 are true, meaning those are the readings he gets, then the rest should be fine too? Why would meeting the criteria you set be grounds for replacing hardware?
Also, if the brushes are only contacting intermittently, there may be some peculiar readings that could make interpreting the results a bit less than precise. Jim
__________________
Own:
1986 Euro 190E 2.3-16 (291,000 miles),
1998 E300D TurboDiesel, 231,000 miles -purchased with 45,000,
1988 300E 5-speed 252,000 miles,
1983 240D 4-speed, purchased w/136,000, now with 222,000 miles.
2009 ML320CDI Bluetec, 89,000 miles
Owned:
1971 220D (250,000 miles plus, sold to father-in-law),
1975 240D (245,000 miles - died of body rot),
1991 350SD (176,560 miles, weakest Benz I have owned),
1999 C230 Sport (45,400 miles),
1982 240D (321,000 miles, put to sleep)
|