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Old 12-27-2006, 08:24 PM
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Scott98 Scott98 is offline
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Weston, FL
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14. This is the pilot bearing cap removed and still on the end of the tool. See Pic 13.

15. This is the pilot bearing still in place. My tool was too small to squeeze through the hole in the pilot bearing. I ended up using two coat hangers that I normally use for removing the instrument cluster to fit behind it and yank it out. Its in there TIGHT. See Pic 14.


Installation is reverse of removal. Make sure you have the proper clutch alignment tool for centering the clutch disc. The Haynes manual gives you the torque values and some other good info. I also went ahead and replaced the slave cylinder. I didn't even have to bleed it. Brake fluid just started pouring in and that was that. Don't ask me why or how because I don't understand it but its working just fine.

If any more experienced board members have helpful comments, please feel free to add them. I would like this post to be the one people can use if they decide to replace their clutch.

Good luck,

Scott
Attached Thumbnails
How to replace a clutch in a 240D - Pictorial-clutch13.jpg   How to replace a clutch in a 240D - Pictorial-clutch14.jpg  
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1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000)
1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold)
1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.)
1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold)
1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold)
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