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I've done some more investigation. I haven't been able to get into the car due to it being so cold here but here is what I found out.
The 82 W126 had a blower fuse for half the year, mine doesn't. I'll test the blower and see if it is getting voltage. I will let you all know what I find. If the blower is good and I'm not getting voltage, I think it can only be the push button, the blower controller (relay?) or the resistor pack. If there is a way to test each component, I would appreciate someone posting it.
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If you have a meter and the where-with-all, there are two points you can probe.
The temperature control module has an output that goes to the blower module. This signal is proportional to the blower speed. Something like this (I'm making these number up) Less than 2 volts is off, 2-4 volts is speed 1 (low), 4-6 volts is speed 2, 6-8 volts is speed 3, 8-10 volts is speed 4, 10-12 volts is speed 5 and > 12 volts is speed 6 (high). It's probably something cose to that.
The pin number on the connector on each module is buried in the manual somewhere. I'll see if I can dig it up.
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I think you guys were talking 126 dialect though, my 123 seems to be slightly different. It will blow a new fuse after 2-3 seconds, so it doesn't seem like it's a direct short.
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Some fuses are slow-blow. They can take several seconds to blow. But it does sound like the circuit is drawing a LOT of current.