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Originally Posted by iNeon
Q: How do you know that you have a break booster issue??
A: Nothing is hooked up but the brakes and fuel shut-off.
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I didn't manage to follow this response so I can't offer much insight into the problem. There are a bunch of items between the brake booster and the rotors. Any or a combination of things with all of them could be influencing your brake performance. But, once again, I am not sure what the issue actually is yet.
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Originally Posted by iNeon
It may be possible that the brake booster and transmission issues are both vacuum related.....
Reply: To my knowledge, there is no vacuum applied to early 240D Automatic transmissions.
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You got me there. I try to stick to manual transmissions, especially with 240Ds. They are very well matched to the manual transmission MB offers, especially the Euros that have the 5-speed. They are, in general, very ill matched to any automatic MB ever offered with them.
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Originally Posted by iNeon
As far as the car wandering....and the 2" of play in the steering wheel....could be a number of things.....
Reply: It's the shocks, steering damper and other multitude of parts that have been sitting under a cast iron engine for 30 years. Everyone says these cars need front-end work right around 150k, mine ought not be too different, eh?
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You may have something here. Ball joints and other alignment joints that rely on rubber donuts and sleeves are likely at an age where they no longer provide really good support. But, before I just threw in the towel, I would check the cheap things that directly affect play, like the tie rods and steering arm/idler arm joints. You might also consider that if the power steering fluid has never been changed, that event is due, along with an adjustment of play in the steering box.
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Originally Posted by iNeon
Q: Why do you think the rear springs are shot??
A: Because I replaced the shocks with new Bilsteins 9 months/5,000 miles ago.
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Once again, what was the symptom? Rear springs may be a problem, if the car was constantly used transport stuff that was too heavy for the suspension and now it squats too low. There are rear wheel alignment specifications that should be checked too.
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Originally Posted by iNeon
Q: Why do you think that the alternator is on it's way out??
A: The alternator case has an ovular lower bolt hole because I used too small a replacement when my Father forgot to tighten the factory bolt whenever the battery was on it's way out and we removed the alternator to have it tested. It needs to be replaced.
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iNeon, I believe you meant the bolt hole was ovalized. If it is truly ovular, does that mean the alternator could be about to ovulate? While you are addressing this issue, I believe that lower bolt runs in a sleeve between alternator housing (front and rear) ears. Without the sleeve you will have a similar problem again, or, you might break one of the ears off. If the thing makes electricity as it should, I would be inclined to drill the oval hole out, make it round and use a larger bolt. I believe there is just a nut on the other side, and if the other, top fastener is tight, the unit should be ok to make electricity for you for quite a while.
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Originally Posted by iNeon
I've been meaning to make this post, but I just didn't know how well a "I thought you guys said these are good cars, but mine seems to be falling apart" thread would go over!
Thank you all very much!  |
We all experience problems with these old machines. Once you fix a few of them, and the car starts to respond to the TLC, it develops an intrinsic value having nothing to do with resale value. I would go anywhere with a 240D, at least one with a manual transmission, as I know with oil and fuel, and a few simple maintenance parts/tools, it is just not going to strand me. My daughter took our old 1982 240D from CT to San Diego, California after college graduation with three other young ladies and all their junk, with about 290,000 miles on the clock, and drove it back at the end of the summer, returning it to me with about 302,000. No problems at all, other than the thirst for oil to replace the leakage past the rear seal, a known problem when she left.
My oldest son then took the car to college and drove it without oil and ruined the engine. At that point, with about 321,000 miles, it was put down.
Neglect can make these things cost more to get into shape. But, once in shape if you like working on the car they are very reliable and affordable. Paying others to fix them will drive you to conclude they are no bargain. Jim