Ok, so I knew the belts were in "not so hot" shape but I've been putting it off. Couple days ago I started noticing a mild burning rubber smell from the car when I gout out and was walking in front of it. By the time I popped the hood it had dissipated. Yesterday I noticed when at idle the temp rose rather quickly to about 100C, at which point I shut it down (I was sitting in the driveway waiting for the wife ~10 min. In summer at 105deg out the car barely got to 85 under regular driving conditions + stop and go). The moment I started driving the temp came right down.
Upon a closer inspection with a cool engine I find the following:
- The Alternator/water pump belts are under less tension than the other two belts (using my roughly calibrated finger).
- One of the two belts appears to be stretched compared to the other (facing the car the belt closest to the engine "bows" outward a bit more than the other belt.)
- The stretched belt has a band (about the first third, closest to the engine) that is glossier than the rest of the belts (melting?).
So a handful of questions:
- Is it a reasonable assumption that the belts are slipping, thus the poor performance of the pater pump at idle, and the friction of slipping causing the melting?
- I have the FSM, but are there any Gotcha's to changing the belts (have those too).
- Is this one of those lean over the top of the car and a couple awkward reaches and you're done, or is this a jack it up and get under the car to do it right kinda things? (I'm in an apt that won't allow anything but "minor fixes", to them minor means anything that you can do sitting in the car or leaning over the hood, the moment you're even looking under the car with a flashlight they're on you).
- Any special tools?
- Belt tensioning. Help here, I don't have the tool in the FSM, any "rule of thumbs" for getting it right? (Both my other vehicles are serpentine with tensioners, so my experience here is nil
)
Thanks everyone,
-nB