Brian, I turned the screw below the oil filter housing 2 turns as you suggested. Now it takes more pedal to get a downshift (when slowing down from 60mph to 20 mph then hitting the accelerator). When I do get a downshift, it is firm but not as hard as before. It feels just about normal, if a tad too firm. Also, when maneuvering the car around my driveway, it only takes a light touch of the pedal to move the car. Before I was having to push the pedal much further to do low speed parking maneuvers. I was also having to push the pedal much further when accelerating away from a stop. I assume that the adjustment you had me do somehow changed my shift point relative to throttle position? What you referred to as the bowden cable adjustment screw is called the control thrust cable in my manual. The manual states "Detach ball socket (212). Push control thrust cable (211) forward until slight resistance is felt. In this position, attach ball socket free of tension; adjust at bowden cable, if necessary". According to the manual, the bowden cable is the cable up above this control thrust cable. Which is which?
I'm not sure what you had me do, but it helped. I would love to understand more. I plan to follow my manual's procedure for adjustment of the accelerator control linkage including this control thrust cable to get things fine tuned.
My car was operating without turbo boost when I got it. Is screwing around with this control thrust cable something that people (the previous owner) might do when the car has no boost and therefore no power? I would assume that they would do this to force an earlier downshift and make the car more driveable when it is lacking power? Thanks a million for the advice, and I look forward to hearing what I did.

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87 300D 162,000 miles: It's not just a car, it's an adventure!