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Old 04-04-2007, 10:37 AM
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hitwtom hitwtom is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Maryland (Washington DC area)
Posts: 263
Quote:
Originally Posted by Magoo View Post
I resoldered mine a couple of months ago with an pencil-tip iron. The hardest part was prying open the plastic casing without breaking it. It's not a multi-layered board like most things have today, and the traces are rather large, so it was pretty easy to just remelt everything.
What Magoo said, use a pencil type iron (not a big Weller gun) just touch the tip to each place where a wire comes through the board, when it gets kind of glassy looking (solder becomes liquid) keep holding the tip where it is and just barely touch a new piece of solder (rosin core) to the spot. Remove the tip of the iron from the spot, let cool and proceed to the next. As I recall, like Magoo said, the hardest part was getting to the board. To get the plastic cover off I had to remove the fan speed switch housing which requires slight prying in 2 directions at once. Picture #1 - CCU removed from dash. Picture 2 - What you're going to be working on. Picture 3 - Soldering. Hope this helps some.
Attached Thumbnails
Symptoms of bad CCU-ccu.jpg   Symptoms of bad CCU-circuit-board-1.jpg   Symptoms of bad CCU-soldering-1.jpg  
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