Quote:
Originally Posted by gs sparhawk
Well, of course, I loosened the several bolts and turned the pump body forward toward the engine until the #1 pump outlet pumped the bit of fuel and quit. I turned the pump until the timing mark on the front pully dampener inticated 24 degrees before TDC. I did have the throttle blocked to full open. It's ,essentially, the "drip tube" method without the drip tube--but I didn't think I could be so far off. I guess I'll have to break down and buy a drip tube.
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There ain't no way that you can properly time an injection pump doing it the way you describe. When reassembling the head to my car, I decided to "eyeball" the ip timing to see if it needed adjustment. I did an exhaustive search here on ip timing and came across a post from a guy that was doing basically what you're doing, but he called it the 'squirt at you' method or something like that. So I proceeded and spun the crank and mine squirted at 40deg or something really long like that. On the advice of a senior member here, I just put it back and kind of ignored my findings, and sure enough, my ip is just fine. That's just a very bad way of checking ip timing. One day I may do the drip method, but I figure now with a new timing chain, the ip should be in good time. Personally I would recommend that if there was suspicion that the ip was out of time, I'd just do a new chain. Of course that is based on the premise that a po didn't adjust the ip to compensate for a stretched chain.