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JimSmith · #9 05-06-2007, 09:46 AM

We have several 190E 2.3-16's and a 1988 W124 300E 5-speed. The W201 was the first model to use the new, now ubiquitous multi-link rear suspension.

Size wise, the W124 is a significantly larger vehicle. They look similar, but the W124 is larger inside than a BMW 5 series, while the W201 (190E) is about the size of a BMW 3 series, maybe with a little more rear seat legroom.

I think the W201 is MB's first significant chassis design improvement since the mid 1960's and the 220D, 230, and other mid size cars that came to the US as 1968 models. It comes from the era of developmental discipline that brought us the W123 and the 240D, and is quite a well thought out and well worked out product.

I have had more problems with the W124 at its age/mileage (lower than the two higher mileage 190E 2.3-16s) than the W201's, although none of the failed items in any of these cars has ever stranded me. I have close to 200,000 miles on my 300E and have a total of over 600,000 miles on three 190E 2.3-16 valves, and my neighbor has a "regular" 1986 190E 2.3 with close to 280,000 miles. He recently had the head rebuilt with the intent to get another couple hundred thousand miles out of it as a car for his son.

If you want to have a higher level of performance, buy a 1986-87 190E 2.3-16. It comes with a factory body kit, and is a precursor to the AMG line of tuned cars MB sells now. It has about the same HP as the 300E of the time from a tuned 4 cylinder, can be found with a 5 speed manual, and has a lowered suspension. The big difference between the W124 and the W201 is handling and the 190E 2.3-16 is a big step up from the standard W201.

A decent 190E 2.3-16 can be found for $4500 on up, and, if you can find a Euro version (grey market) that is in good shape and is missing a bunch of the US version's added junk (like the automatic climate controls, electric seats, electric windows) you get a lighter car that has no extra opportunities to send you into the innards of the car to keep it operating 100%. The basic machines are very sturdy, however you have to become familiar with the self leveling system for the rear as having the dealer fix it is expensive, and "it" usually has problems with the accumulators about every 70,000 miles. If you ignore them they ruin the rear "shock" mounts, which means new struts and they cost a bundle. There is also a small position sensing/flow directing vavle that needs to be kept clean and lubricated. Chaning the accumulators is a pain in the rear as the typically they are corroded to the hydraulic supply lines and I have had to cut the threaded boss off the old accumulator with a Dremel tool and then cut the boss off the fitting on the hydraulic line. Messy and takes a long time, but it works.

Hope this helps you. Jim