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Old 05-06-2007, 12:09 PM
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skiier3_9 skiier3_9 is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Minnesota
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Continued

XII. See picture 1 for how the assembly goes back together - you'll have to put the nut on the top on reassembly if you couldn't get the bolt out the top. Note - in the picture the arrow indicates 'up' when assembling.

XIII. I pushed the new rubber bushings into the idler arm and tapped the bottom one in as far as it would go (see pic 3). Your goal here is just to be able to get the bolt/nut/washers/etc. on so that you can use the bolt/nut to pull the bushings into the idler arm all the way.

XIV. Once you've got the idler arm tightened down - just reverse the sequence.

Note about tie-rod installation/orientation. Make sure the tie-rods have the threaded part of the rod out (at the steering knuckle) - see pic 4. This will be used for alignment.

Also - use a 5 mm allen key in the new tie rod bolts to hold the bolt while you tighten the nut down all the way with a 17/19mm wrench.

Other than that - you'll need an alignment after this is all finished up. You'll also notice that your steering effort is much different than before. My damper was original and quite wore out (there is a big difference in steering feel - especially at low speeds).

Good luck and be safe!
Attached Thumbnails
DIY: W124 Tie Rods, Drag Link, Steering Damper, and Idler Arm Repair Kit-idler_arm_bolt.jpg   DIY: W124 Tie Rods, Drag Link, Steering Damper, and Idler Arm Repair Kit-idler_arm1.jpg   DIY: W124 Tie Rods, Drag Link, Steering Damper, and Idler Arm Repair Kit-idler_arm2.jpg   DIY: W124 Tie Rods, Drag Link, Steering Damper, and Idler Arm Repair Kit-tie_rod1.jpg  
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