Ed:

I would second Tom's advice. Your repair is going to fail sooner or later, as the plastic radiator parts are going to break again somewhere else.

I put at new head and radiator in my sister's Volvo this spring when her's blew on the interstate -- not cheap.

The plastic/aluminum radiator has two advantages -- it is lighter and it works better. Aluminum transfers heat somewhat better than copper or brass. However, not only does the plastic die, but the aluminum is subject to corrosion, especially if you use green coolant. I would personally spring for a copper/brass one because they not only last longer, but are repairable. No way to permanently fix the deteriorated plastic, and even if you can find a new tank (I did for my Volvo TD), the core is usually shot, too. Mine was, still ended up with a new rad.

My brother just lost the rad in his Jeep Sunday -- probably corroded through at the top tank connection, same plastic and aluminum deal. He's getting a new rad put in as soon as he can get it in the shop.

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!