Well I put the "new" regulator/motor/controller in today and now everything is working again. I got it from a place in MA for 65.00 plus shipping which seemed pretty good compared to aftermarket of 300 and dealer of I don't want to guess...

I learned a couple of things: To drill out the rivets use a 1/4" bit and then punch the remainder through with a 1/8" dia punch. My rivet gun could fit the rivet and said it was able to handle that size but I think I now have carpal tunnel for life. I don't see any reason you could not use screws assuming you take precautions against loostening. The screw on the very top would be a little hard to get the nut on however

While I was in there I though I would try to figure out why I sometimes get water in the foot wells inside the car. With the door closed and the plastic peeled back I sprayed the door with water. Water was coming inside the door like a typhoon, splashing all over. It seemed the rubber gasket against the glass was not even slowing it down. It had built up some "dirt residue" or something on the "felt" of the seal and also on the glass. I cleaned this with a toothbrush so it was smooth again. I tested again and it was much improved. Water still gets in the door but it is not like a flood. Then I sealed the bottom of the plastic sheet very well with RTV, as close as I could to the inside edge of the sheet metal.

Mike

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1998 C230 330,000 miles (currently dead of second failed EIS, yours will fail too, turning you into the dealer's personal human cash machine)
1988 F150 144,000 miles (leaks all the colors of the rainbow)
Previous stars: 1981 Brava 210,000 miles, 1978 128 150,000 miles, 1977 B200 Van 175,000 miles, 1972 Vega (great, if rusty, car), 1972 Celica, 1986.5 Supra