Electrical gremlins in my 1996 E300D (W210) . . . .

2.5 months ago, had no-start problem with engine warm (details in first post). Dealer, by phone, suggested overheated crankshaft position sensor or fuel pump relay. Sure enough, car started after a 20-30 min cool down.

Problem went away for two months, but returned this weekend with a vengeance. Now it won't start at all, even cold. Current symptoms (related and possibly not) are:

- No-start condition is always accompanied by flashing red/green lights on rear view mirror. Relocking/unlocking with key fob has no effect. With key in position 2, the flashing lights come on about the same time the GP light goes off.
- Engine cranks fine, so rule out battery, starter. This is more of a fuel cut-off issue.
- No fuel leaks or air bubbles; engine runs fine when it does start.
- Shut off valve on IP clicks when key turned to position 2.
- All fuses (all 3 locations) are fine. Glow plugs are new.
- Engine has never died while running, which is the typical symptom of a K40 relay failure.
- For the last year, there's been an intermittent (and progessively worsening) failure of the speedometer and odometer, accompanied by ABS and ETS lights. Tach and remainder of instrument cluster work fine. Each time speedo/odo decide to start working, ABS and ETS lights go off simultaneously.
- Cruise control quit a few months ago.
- Auxilliary fan now inoperative. Won't start with direct 12v power. Won't start in climate control test mode (both AUTO switches on 10+ seconds). With REST button depressed 5+ seconds, position 20 reading is 10.00 mA (spec), but digital multimeter at fan connector reads 0.00. At same time, I can hear clicking from inside main relay box.

My plan is to start by replacing the CPS ($50-70). I'm not sure what the dealer meant by fuel pump relay, as I understand from an earlier post that this car doesn't have a separate relay for that--the fuel pump function is built into one of the big relays in the main relay box.

Any other advice on the no-start issue?

Any other way to test the aux fan? If not, looks like a new one is in order. Any thoughts about replacing just the motor/fan versus the entire two-fan assembly? I know several members have cautioned against aftermarket assemblies.

Paul