Okay, now 8 months or so later, after selling two vehicles and buying another, plus doing a crapload of home renos and landscaping, I have time to work again on this car.
Okay, so I drained the fluid from the pan again, as I did not do the torque converter at the time. As the fluid isn't too expensive, why not, right?
Also drained the torque converter with my new 27mm socket....really easy to turn the pulley and find the drain bolt, actually. Better than playing with a starter.
So, drained them both, added Trans-X and filled with fluid. Started and filled again a few times. Tested the gears, and she still revs high, then starts to creep in all gears.
Checked the linkage below with the wife shifting the gears, and it looked like it shifts....firm, I guess? Nothing loose I can see. Flex disks look good.
Replaced the stop lever from a parts car as my rubber piece on the original fell off one side and wasn't connecting the two levers anymore. Tightened up all the acclerator linkage, including the rod that goes back across the valve cover down to the tranny.
Removed as much EGR vacuum lines as I could find, while still keeping the lines to the transmission intact. I don't have a Mighty-Vac to test these with up here in Alberta - obviously they're kept in the restricted section with the golden unicorns that I've never seen either.
I have used the suck on the line and stick your tongue to it to do an initial vacuum seal test. The line going to the tranny holds the vacuum I create quite well. The rubber connector going into that line from the IP does NOT hold any kind of a vacuum really. I've changed it with the parts car, and same thing....doesn't hold.
So, I am thinking this rubber connector from IP to tranny vacuum line might be the problem....when I put the car into gear, there is very little vacuum,so it does not move. I cannot feel it shift into gear.
However,as I increase the rpm's, more vacuum is created, slowing putting the transmission into gear, and causing it to move, but there's only so much vacuum that can be created with rpm's without redlining the engine.
Is this scenario possibly correct, or am I missing something here? If so, short of replacing the rubber connectors until I have a good seal, where do I go from here?
Thanks in advance.
