thanks for the info. those links are helpful.
my plans are for really no more than 8 psi, so things are good there.
i guess i'll have to bite the bullet and spend some money having someone tune my setup on a dyno. it doesn' t really make sense to spend all the money i've spent and will spend to be a cheap ass when it comes to tuning it all.
i'm going to have my buddy/mechanic help me with the install, though based on what another member, Clinton, wrote up, i don't think i should have any major problems.
what will you guys do with the oil cooler mounting. based on what people have told me, i don't think i like the way mosselman indicates the cooler should be mounted. my plan was to use an aftermarket oil cooler and position it in front of the right half of the radiator. i figure since i'm going to replace the cooler i might as well use one with a larger cooling capacity to keep my engine cooler under the new strains. i've removed my A/C including condenser so there seems to be ample room for an oil cooler between the radiator and the electric fan. as long as i do a good job with the fittings and hoses, can you see any problem with this type of setup?
what would you suggest as a good way to control activation of the cold start valve? maybe with a switch activated by full throttle? with the mosselman kit would the cold start valve be the only way to adjust fuel delivery? the mosselman fuel computer can't be adjusted or tuned can it?
do you think a manual boost controller like this one
http://www.dawesdevices.com/boost.html would be good since i'll only be going from 5.5 psi from the wastegate to 7.5 or 8 psi?
do you think that a potentiometer in place of the R-16 resistor for ignition timing, a boost controller like the one above for boost, and cold start valve activator for fuel will be enough add on control to allow a professional to tune this buildup on a dyno?
thanks again for all your time.