Well, if you say you've always done that and that the inclination thus achieved is no big deal as far as stability goes, provided that good chocks are used, I'll go ahead and give it a try the way you do it. I was also a bit concerned the direct contact of the jacks's saddles with the frame box might damage the latter, but if you've been doing it all along with no ill effects... then I'll do the same thing myself. I won't even have to raise the jack's posts at all, since 15-1/8" (the height of the 6-ton jacks with the posts all the way down) is more height than I have ever used and all that I need. 12-ton jacks as you say are definitely very safe, but their minimum height is 19-1/2" and I don't see how you can raise an end of the car that high without also raising the opposite end (right?), and that quite complicates things a lot, IMHO.
Yep, the same thing happens to me too each and every time when shopping at Harbor Freight. I went up there yesterday with the intention of getting just the 6-ton jack stands (they are currently on sale at $19.95) and perhaps a couple of additional low-cost items. I ended up buying a whole bunch of different things that I have no immediate need for for a total of slightly over $120. There's something *hypnotic* about HF that causes you to buy, buy, buy. The only good thing about it, is that I'd been HF-free for over 6 months...
Thanks a lot for all your tips and advice. I'll keep the 6-ton ones and give the things a try when my oil change becomes due at the beginning of February. These jack stands are H-U-G-E compared to the Craftsman 2-1/4 ton ones, and look at least 10 times as sturdy. I am glad you suggested 'em and that I finally got 'em.
Just please confirm this once more for me: on the w123, when, for instance, you raise the front end, you place the HF 6-ton jacks (which have a minimum height of 15-1/8") under the frame box right where the MB jack holes are with the rear wheels of the car on the floor. Is this correct?
Thanks again,
Rino
Quote:
Originally Posted by dmorrison
Rino
A couple of opinions. I have always placed the jack under the frame box on the W123 and W107. I have not used a 2X4 or any other "pad" between the jack and frame, the wood can split and cause the car to shift. A hard rubber pad would be better. Harbor freight makes them for the 6 ton jack. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95952
I have not bought them because I am comfortable with what I am doing, And I will spend money at Harbor Freight ( can't get out of that store without dropping $100 ) Make sure the frame box is centered over the jacks stand pad. I make contact on both sides of the pad at the 2 edges of the boxframe. I jack the car up raise the jack to just below the boxframe and slide it towards the rear allowing it to make contact with the boxframe at the two pad spots. Do the same think on the other side but make sure the 2nd jackstand is raised the same amount of clicks as the other one. This way your car should be level ( left to right ). Lower the car on the jackstands and give it a shake so you can see it's stability on the stands. If it does not seem stable , move the jackstands to get it more stable.
I do make sure that the transmission parking pawl has engaged when I stop the car, engage the parking brake and I park on a flat, hard surface.
the car will sit at a angle on the jackstands. The amount shown in the picture allows me to work under the car easily but I am not uncomfortable with the angle the car is sitting at. I am just working on the engine. If I have to work under the complete car I use 12 ton jacks and jack the car up pretty high in 2 stages. I also have the HF long body jack that can raise the car 33 inches. As I said I do this in 2 stages.
If your uncomfortable with just the 2 jacks. I sometimes leave the raising jack under the engine crossframe instead of removing it after jacking. Drop the car down on the jack stands and allow the raising jack to just kiss the frame. Now your supporting the car in 3 places. Or place another 2 jacks near the 2 installed but just barely touching the frame, a sort of backup.
Always make sure you chock your front wheels when jacking just the rear of the car. Good chocks, not 2X4's.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=96479
It will roll on you when jacking and be unstable when on the jack stands.
Good luck and be careful.
Dave |