View Single Post
  #28  
Old 01-25-2008, 11:33 PM
tankowner's Avatar
tankowner tankowner is offline
You talkin’ to me?
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Columbia, MO
Posts: 907
Quote:
Originally Posted by landev View Post
All,

Well... the battery checks out to be in very good condition with "a lot of life" left in it... so I guess that nixes the bad battery theory. I believe Terry and co. is on the right track with regards to bubbles in the fuel system. I am looking forward to receiving the new prefilter/seal and changing both filters out. I still don't understand why the possible air bubble creates a problem with lower temps, but not high (can someone please explain this to me?)

The plan now is to change out the filters, then try starting the car at home (which is generally much colder than in town) some morning without using the block heater.

Also, if there is a proven method used to purge any bubbles in the system, I'd appreciate the "how to" on that as well.

THanks all!

-l-
Battery checks out - well, that is a good thing. As has been said, you can start it up and watch the clear fuel lines for awhile and see if you can actually see any bubbles being pulled through. Then, you might also shut it down and go back and watch the line again - if there is a leak somewhere it might suck some air back through after shutdown.

I can't explain why the temp might be an issue here. The problem is that there are always lots of variables in play, but which ones are actually involved can be difficult to diagnose - so sometimes it is just easier to think about the problem and possible causes of that particular problem. Here you are having erratic starting issues and, having been through the experience myself, it could be that the fuel lines are sucking air somewhere. If the lines are sucking enough air, you might notice it when accelarating on the highway - erratic fits of hesitation.

Nevertheless, I believe once you stop the engine some of the fuel eventually drains back to the tank (someone correct me if I am wrong here) and in the process, if there is a leak in the line somewhere it will pull air into the sytem - get enough air and you won't be able to start.

If you are changing out the prefilter, you want to pull the fuel line connector up out of the top of the prefilter. My point being that if you try to pull the prefilter out while the fuel line is still attached to it, you run the risk of damaging the fuel line - you'll see what I mean once you get at it. Also, before you attempt to change out the prefilter you will want to open the fuel cap to release some pressure off the system - it will help keep fuel from pouring out when you pull the prefilter. You can actually take a look at the area around the prefilter right now - start it up and have a look, then shut it down and have a look - you shouldn't see any fuel around the lip of the prefilter housing.

Finally, this system will purge itself of air (if it is not too much air) if you crank it enough. It would be a good idea to have some fuel on hand to fill up the prefilter housing once you change out the filter. It holds very little fuel in there, but every little bit helps. Once you have it all back together, crank it for awhile to try and purge any air - I would say not longer than 30-45 seconds, then give the starter a couple minutes to cool down before trying again.

Good luck!
__________________
'95 E300D ("Tank") - 231,000 miles
'79 240D ("Biscuit") - 197,250 miles (Sold)
'83 240D ("Ding-Ding") - 217,000 miles (Death by deer)
______________________________________

"Back off, man. I’m a scientist” ~ Peter Venkman
Reply With Quote