Quote:
Originally Posted by brookspw
I'm going to get new tires, get them balanced, change the steering damper and see where we are. I am going to visually inspect the boots and bushings while I change the damper.
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I think you have a good plan, I'll offer a couple of additions.
1) When the tires are installed have the wheels checked for lateral and radial run out - Over the years I've found quite a few bent rims and while you can balance a wheel/tire combo on a bent rim it won't produce a smooth vibration free ride. I can't remember the exact specification but IIRC anything more that .015-020 run out is not acceptable.
2) Ask the person that is going to install your tires what kind of balancer he is planning on using - and how he is going to mount the wheel to the balancer. The best solution is dynamic (two-plane) balance that uses a "pin-plate" mount to attach the wheel to the balancer using the lug nuts to apply the mounting force. High-end tire shops will have this equipment and know how to use it. Insist that after the wheel is reported to be "in-balance" by the balancing machine that the operator removes the wheel from the balancer and remounts it 90 degrees from the first location - then re-check the balance. The wheel should stay in-balance when mounted at any position on the balancer - if it doesnt something is wrong.
3) At the risk of staring a flame war about tire brands I've got to say that over the years I've found high-end Michelin tires to require the least amount of weight to balance out - and they seem to stay in balance for a longer period of time compared to other brands. I know they are absurdly expensive but they are all I use on my cars.