Thread: Rust stoppers.
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Old 05-02-2008, 06:03 PM
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Brandon_SLC Brandon_SLC is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: High on a mountainside, near Salt Lake City.
Posts: 557
What about Rustoleum?

I Can hardly believe Rustoleum doesn't even get mentioned. I had good results with it on wrought Iron fencing. It still looks great after 5 years in the sun, nightly dew, sometimes with salts and acids in it, since this was So. Cal.

Is there some reason it won't work on cars? I ask this because it's a lot cheaper than POR15.

I just discovered the spare tire well in my 240d has been banged from the bottom, and has surface rust on the inside. The little rubber plugs were missing, so I imagine every time the car gets driven in wet weather water comes, in but because of the dent, it takes a long time to dry out again.

I'm gonna do a little straightening to the sheet metal, use some sort of rust stop where the undercoat was scraped away, then ruberized undercoat over that. But for the inside of the trunk I had planed on using the same rustoleum I used on my Aunts fence. It's satin black, so looks close to the original finish.

I also dicovered some rust in the rear seat footwell that is starting to rust through. I planed on using the POR15 floor repair kit for that.

I'm getting started soon. I also have some bubbling paint where the side trim clips are. I'm going to try and repair those, and hope my paint hasn't faded so much that I end up having to paint the entire car. I did just by an aerosol can from my local Dupont paint supplier, to do my hubcaps, and it looks like a pretty close match.
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1979 240D, 4spd manual, Power Sunroof, manual windows, 147k miles, Pastel gray/Black MB Tex.
1991 300D 2.5 - Smokes like it's on Crack!
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