I got the uni-syn and carb hood adapters from baum tools, along with a proper valve adjuster wrench. Not cheap tho, and I heard the coolwhip method works fine.

The smoking is most likely due to oil control and has nothing to do with the carbs. UNLESS, and this is a big unless, it is black sooty smoke - similar to what a diesel would do. What color is the smoke? Blueish-gray is the bad stuff.

A sticking float valve could easily flood the heck out of the carbs at idle, create a black cloud of smoke and would do a number on your plugs and A/F ratio at the same time which would cause the rough running. At speed, the thing being stuck wouldn't matter as much. The ze-28k carb kits come with a new float valve and some different sized spacer washers to adjust the fuel level. If you are going cheap, try just buying a can of carb cleaner and really spraying the hell out of the float valves which you have already and work it in and out. Wear some rubber gloves first tho! You might want to do the same thing to the fuel return valve on the outside of the front carb - it unscrews with a big wrench. In my year this valve comes into play at idle and allows the fuel pump to circulate the gas around and keep it cool, later years just have a pinhole orifice to do the same thing. I could conceive of the fuel return not working possibly causing the pump to overload the float valve at idle (although that is just a theory that would need confirming)

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1967 230S automatic
Boston, MA