Quote:
Originally Posted by Cr from Texas
I'm a little confused. Several months ago, I read all the posts in this thread and finished with the conclusion that the idle vacuum should be less than 10" in the transmission line. That would suggest the adjustment Herring needs should be to produce less, not more, vacuum at idle. Mine is now shifting a good as when it was new and my idle vacuum is 8-9 and bleeds off quickly to 0 under acceleration. Did I miss something?
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This might well be the ideal case. The story goes:
This car had always been a bit abrupt on 1-2 and 2-3, and "normal" on 3-4 since I bought it in January. Round about May, the 3-4 shift started to get slower. It was in the garage anyway for no glow light. I'd measured the plugs' resistance and found 2 bad and 2 good, and left the mechanic a note about that. When I called, I was told he'd replaced all 4 plugs. I guess there was a bit of annoyance in my voice or something when I told him to take a look at the trans.
I picked it up on a Saturday (no mechanic around) and I guess he'd spent an hour (what I was billed for) adjusting the modulator to its "hardest" setting. Now it revved way too high in gears 1 and 2 and slammed the shifts. But 3-4 was pretty normal. I called back on Monday and they said it was all they could do. The implication I got was that I was a cheap bastard and I guess they thought I'd have fun with my "fixed" car.
So, by adding the smaller orifice and restrictor to the VCV, I'm basically compensating for the "aggressively-adjusted" modulator. What I should really do is get down underneath and adjust it back, but I'd rather actually improve things first.
So, in one sentence, yes, my vacuum might be a bit "too high" but there's a reason for it, and fixing the reason won't fix my trans problem.