It's possible to knock the ball joint out of the steering knuckle with a BFH rather than a press, but be careful not to damage the edge of the hole. This problem is avoided with a press.

The 'proper' way to seat the new ball joint is with the MB-designed ball joint press. This tool is quite expensive, so an economical alternative is to pay your local indy (who should have the tool) a few bucks to do it. Some members of this forum have successfully done it with the Autozone ball joint press, but I tried with a good quality K-D Tools ball joint press and couldn't make it work. You have to press on the outer edge of the ball joint (NOT the center line), and there's precious little clearance in the steering knuckle.

The LCA bushings can be a bear to R/R. Assuming you have the 3-piece bushing, you can try knocking the end pieces off with a hammer and chisel, then pressing out the center piece. If you can't get them off by hand, try an air hammer. Alternatively, you can saw/grind them off, taking care not to damage the LCA itself. When installing the new end pieces, you must apply pressure to BOTH the center and edge simultaneously; otherwise the metal will bend and the bushing will not properly seat. The special MB tool for this task applies pressure at both points, but you can gerry rig a suitable tool with a good assortment of pipes, mandrels, and large washers.

If you haven't already bought your replacement parts, you may want to consider buying the new LCA bushings from a dealer. Aftermarket bushings (even Lemforder, the OEM supplier) tend to use softer metal.

Winmutt's admonition to use only a Klann-style compressor to remove the front springs is in ALL CAPS for a reason. When compressed, these springs store a tremendous amount of energy. An uncontrolled decompression can cause very serious injury. For safety, borrow, rent, or buy a proper compressor.