Thanks for the input Guys, but Ill stick with the split link, for two reasons, 1) I cannot get a rivetting type link for this chain as the supplier/maker does not provide them, and, 2) Over many years, and many different engines, some very highly stressed engines, I have used split link chains, with no problems whatsoever. I think MB changed over, probably due to the mis-assembly of these chains, by some Mechanics. Its quite easily done, so I suppose this is the reason why.
The thought of taking a hammer to the chain in an attempt to peen over the link ends, to me, seems a recipie for disaster, hit it wrong and you could loose a cam-sproket, or chip a tooth or wreck the chain, After all, sprockets are only cast iron, and we all know what thats like! Added to that, How do you know if the rivetted ends are secure enough, or conversely, too tight and causing that link to bind with its neighbours?

If you havent got the correct doodad for fitting this pressed in peened type, I would recommend a correctly fitted split link especially when you think what damage will be caused by a link failing.

On a slightly different note, I managed to remove the wayward spring I dropped in to the motor, I had to remove the cam chain tensioner, top guide, and split the chain, Using a long screwdriver, magnetised, I was able to retrieve it without too much bother How would I have done that with a rivetted link!!?

The engine has never run better, so as the old saying goes, If it aint broke, Dont fix it!

Thanks again guys

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Alastair AKA H.C.II South Wales, U.K. based member

W123, 1985 300TD Wagon, 256K,
-Most recent M.B. purchase, Cost-a-plenty, Gulps BioDiesel extravagantly, and I love it like an old dog.

W114, 1975 280E Custard Yellow,
-Great above decks needs chassis welding--Really will do it this year....