One thing I completely forgot to mention aswell. Right now when the Idle Air Control Valve is plugged in, it always just opens a slight bit, but NEVER opens more or less. Before when the car would warm up, the control valve would fully open, so in N or P the car would idle at about 2,000RPM's (LOL). Once unplugged the control valve, obviously, just sat at a stationary open setting, and the guy who sold me the car just used the "unplugging" technique as a quick fix to not notice the high Idling...
I really want to fix up my car to a nice smooth setting
. But right now with it guzzling gas like a hummer, it's not helping me save money to help her
. I've also got a transmission leak, massive, which started right after I got my tranny replaced, a head gasket job coming soon, sounds like I'll need a new air pump soon, and last but not least, random noises. I just wish I could take out a 10k loan and fix everything to have her running like a new car
.