Quote:
Originally Posted by SD Blue
IIRC, rather than do a bunch of re-plumbing, all that is needed is power and ground. There should already be power there, from the fuse F10 and the ground is switched on and off by the Pushbutton Controller. So grounding the one side of the connector will cause full heat.
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I guess I don't understand. From reading the previous posts in this thread, I understood that the problem is that pressure past a torn diaphragm inside the monovalve causes it to close - not an electrical problem. So I guess I don't understand how grounding and energizing it ("it" being what I presume to be an internal solenoid) is going to make it stay open.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SD Blue
However, once you aquire a monovalve rebuild kit it's about a 15 min. repair.
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And that is the plan - once I can get one. But as previously stated I don't see how I can get one AND find time to install it before around 10 am Thursday morning.
On the other hand, loosening two hose clamps, removing the hoses from the valve, and re-joining the two hoses with a plastic elbow - which is something I can pick up at any local auto parts store - seems more do-able to get the immediate result - until I can get the rebuild kit.
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1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock
1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown