Quote:
Originally Posted by rummur
New plan is ;
headgasket
piston rings
rod & main bearings
valve seats ground
valve stem seals
wrist pin bushings
Curious though, how do you know when a timing chain needs to be replaced without having any documentation on dates or miles?
And should the tensioner and guides be replaced with the chain even if they appear to be in fine condition?
--Any one trying to sell a rebuildable turbocharged engine?--
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I have built these and other engines for many years.
Your plan sounds good, but remember that with extra power comes extra fuel consumption....you just can't keep your foot out of it !
Stay with the stock motor configuration...it avoids many variables you will have to work around.
Apart from your list above I suggest you find out what the bore size is and obtain a set of next size up rings.
Also I strongly recommend a set of Total Seal rings. These seal the second ring land for better compression and less leak down of the ring set. It also compensates for a slightly worn piston....skirts, not ring lands. If the ring lands are beat up you will need to replace the pistons.
Installing next oversize rings will require you to fit them to each bore by filing the ends to allow them to fit the bore with about 0.008" end gap.
Although this is smaller than stock I find it works very well on all but race or heavy hauling motors.
Tensioner should be replaced as a matter of course, same as tensioner blade and tensioner piston assembly.
This goes for the chain too. This can be done with a chain kit that uses a 'master link'.
To further reduce internal contamination the exhaust valve and guides need to be the tightest the factory allows. The head should be dressed with a three angle seat cut and the valves should be back cut to increase flow and add a little power.
One word of caution : Do not advance over stock the injection pump timing thinking it will increase power...it will not. It will just make the engine run hotter and more noisy.