Quote:
Originally Posted by gregszustak
If you remove the 3/2 valve from the top and connect the bleeder line directly to the u-shaped vacuum line your transmission should work, more or less, somewhat normal.
If you remove and plug the line coming from the main vacuum line to the u-shaped rubber on top of the valve cover your transmission will not get any vacuum and your shifts will be very late and hard. This would indicate your modulator is working to some extent (at least at the extremes.)
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I have the VCV tee'd in with the vacuum supply and the modulator line. I still get 15" idle and 0" WOT with a gauge tee'd into the modulator line.
From what you guys are saying the 3/4 valve would do the same exact thing and would more or less only be there to prevent leak-down when the car is off.
I tried disconnecting the vacuum line to the modulator all together and I have the same exact problems, so Im going to say the modulator is poop. I read iandiam's post about how the spring can rust out in the modulator and give the symptoms I have.
Here's the link.
a bad modulator valve can cause flare in older 722.3x
Any recomendations with pulling the modulator? Tips, tricks?
