Quote:
Originally Posted by a2t
I am...sigh...knuckles still bruised from the blower motor replacement but Im persistant, and I want this car to make it thru the summer.
Rad is $$. Hate to replace a good 1, but I hear what your saying. Must be some way to flush out the crud, like I said best I could tell it was clean. I'll shoot it with the IR thermometer, see if theres any cool spots.
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I am certain either it has scale (which CAN be reduced using citric acid flush) or the plastic necks are ready to crack and leak.
There are flushing machines that attach to a cooling system and run a while to gradually filter the acid out of the system, I never used one but have done citric flushes on engines with cast iron heads. I would not want to do that on my 603 (aluminum head), I replaced the original radiator at 250K because it was running hot. On my second car (a lien sale) the PO had already overheated the engine and the head cracked that's why the car was only $475
That radiator went promptly into the waste can.
What you have to realize is the 603 is a hot running engine, there is very little margin for error. I ran an '87 300D without the AC condenser and could see a lower running temp while going uphill.
I also use and recommend going to the 606 fan upgrade (plastic 8 blades instead of the metal what- 5 blades? fan)
In addition, you can buy a lower cost thermoclutch for the later fan, it fits in the same way but the screws are different so if you do go that route be sure to pick up the right screws from the dealer.