Your other post stated R15 only had a single wire on each terminal..now you say it has a single and a double wire as I stated it should have.
Which is it ????????

< I'll try connecting the positive side of the battery to the single wire that came off the resistor.<<

That is not what the test is.
Read the test again..[ Post #4..R15 test] it is a fan motor and R15 test and that test requires all wires [ a single on on..e side and a double on the other] to be hooked up to the R15 terminals.
The test also requires the Battery ground to be connected b/c this is an In -Situ test.


The test again:

bring 12 v pos oover to the R15 resistor. Touch the 2 wire terminal and you should have HIGH Fan
Touch the single wire terninal for Low Fan.
If Yes to both, fan motor is good, as well as R15..if NO to single wire test, , but yes to double, R15 is bad.
This test does not need any key On or controls On , or engine running , etc. It is a direct 12v to fan in-situ test so we know which direction to take the next test. If this test is PASS. your problem is upstream


But in this case , we already know you have an open R15..which effects ONLY low speed.....so the relay is clicking and the R15 is downstream from the relay load contacts, so a Bad R15 fits the condition.
The true test in that case is to take a V reading at R15 single wire side while at the same time jumpering the pressure sw at the reciever/drier to energize the relay. if YES all low fan circuits are verified as good except r15.

You can also simply jumper R15 right at the terminals [ across them ] and then jumper drier sw to verify a bad R15 ..the results will be a high fan in place of the normal low fan b/c you have NO dropping resistane due to R15 jumper. Either way.... I do all those right off the bat at R15 cuz I can perform all those test variables in less than 2 min. I then work off those telling results.

End of test.

__________________
A Dalton