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Originally Posted by zsmith29
Thanks Bohdi and all those who contributed.
I was originally thinking of replacing the L and the R. I might only do the L due to the fact that I know it is bad.
It is s Southern Car from SC and is now in TN. No rust at all. None
I dunno we will see what I buy when I order the parts. I suppose it depends on what kind of mood I am in at the time.
I will not do an alignment if I only replace the UCA and the bushing on the sway bar. Is this the correct thing to do??
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I would get an alignment if the UCA is replaced, simply because the UCA bushing that are in there now may be deformed if they're old, which would mean new, healthy bushings might push it out of alignment a little. Alignment is pretty sensitive. Others may have different opinions; I'm not really the expert here.  But, that would be my advice.
Make sure you order two torsion bar bushings for one side ... there is one on either side of the UCA where it connects to the torsion bar. I don't see any problem with only replacing one UCA and not the other, if the other looks good. When I bought my 240D, the driver's side looked perfect. The passenger side looked like this:
I replaced the bad one and all seems to be well in the UCA department.
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1987 300D, arctic white/palomino--314,000 miles
1978 240D 4-speed, Euro Delivery, light ivory/bamboo--370,000 miles
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited, light khaki/slate--140,000 miles
2018 Chevy Cruze diesel, 6-speed manual, satin steel metallic/kalahari--19,000 miles
1982 Peugeot 505 diesel, 4-speed manual, blue/blue, 130,000 miles
1995 S320, black/parchment--34,000 miles (Dad's car)
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