Looks good. I would like to hear from those who have successfully clear-coated a valve cover after polishing. My recollection of Japanese motorcycle engines in the 1970s is that the clear-coat would start to flake off after awhile and the resulting patchwork looked terrible. Perhaps coating compounds are better? A local shop recommends powder coating but the process is fairly expensive.
Guys,
I am a certified aluminum rectifier who gave the tech talk on this for Roy locally at the International stars tech mtg. PLEASE do not attempt to clearcoat.
The best way to keep the valve cover shiny is to remove it, clean it completely in and out, then use tooling or abrasive paper to rectify it, i.e. the same way that a telescope mirror is rectified to move all the molecules in the same direction on the surface, which creates the unified reflection of all light.
Using Simi chrome or anything else with ammonia only compounds the problem. By using ammonia-based products, you insert tiny crystals of ammonia based compounds that get in the cracks and crevices of the surface. Over time, the heat and exposure to moisture activates these and actually eats away small amounts of the metal, weakening it. Simi chrome contains the seeds of its own destruction which are further added each time you use it.
After you rectify and get the mirror finish, apply a coat of surf board wax, aka "sex wax" at the the surfing stores like Ron Jon's or carnauba wax and let iot soak into the pores once the piece has been thoroughly cleaned. That will seal the shine in. After 6 months, remove it from the engine, wash with fels naptha soap several times following a dip in gasoline or diesel fuel, then reseal and buff. No muss, no fuss except for the initial investment of effort.
Thanks,
S