Quote:
Originally Posted by jmcgill
Well, I've done quite a bit of work on my 1983 300D and I still can't get the vibration at idle to go away.
Here's all I've done:
Valve Adjustment, transmission mount, new rack damper screw, cleaned out the alda line that goes to the intake (it was sooted up), two bottles of diesel purge through the fuel, resetting the linkage rods
The only major thing left is the engine mounts, which I haven't mustered up the money to pay for yet. But, they're dry and don't LOOK to be very bad, but looks can be deceiving.
That being said, I'm still getting a pretty decent vibration at idle, it's much worse when the car's cold, but still there when warm...all times it's worse when the A/C compressor is on.
No matter what I do, I can't get an idle of more than about 600 rpms.....is there any way on these cars to increase the idle speed?
Also, would worn injectors (or nozzles) cause rough idling like this?
Thanks,
Joe
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The above in blue is an indication of something going on in the Combustion/Precombustion Chamber. The Fuel is burning better when the Engine is warm so it vibrates less.
I did a whole list of things to get rid of idle vibration; including changing Trans and Engine Mounts. But, the 1 thing that I did that took out the bulk of the vibration was rebuilding my Injectors.
The stock Injector Nozzles have holes drilled in the little Pintel inside of the Injector. On the set that came out of my Engine and almost all of the ones I have pulled from the Junk Yard those holes are plugged with carbon. (The FSM shows taking the Injector apart and picking out the holes with the proper sized music wire.)
Below are 2 pics; the drawing shows how the holes are drilled. On my I jectors even the bigger cross drilled hole was plugged.
If you are also having hard starting and smoke at starting there could also be an indication of poor compression.
Also it was not until I did the list of stuff to reduce vibration that the new Gold Colored Rack Damper Screw was able to help.