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The FSM procedure is trivial -- remove old filter, install new filter. It's pretty much the same as your old 300D. The secondary filter is perhaps a little harder to get off and on.
The only "tricks" I've learned from this forum, other fora, and personal experience are:
(1) A warm engine will start more easily after filter changes;
(2) A freshly-charged battery is nice if the engine happens to need more than average cranking;
(3) If you use hose clamps (Vice-grips(R) will work if you're gentle), you can minimize the fuel that will leak out of the lines while changing the primary;
(4) The fuel tank should be at least half full and it helps to have the car in a nose-down position so fuel will flow from the tank w/o help;
(5) It's very difficult to get a secondary filter into place while it is completely full of fuel without spilling. Fill it mostly full, then wiggle it into place and put a wedge underneath to keep the filter pressed up against the housing. Now use a funnel to fill the filter the rest of the way and put the central bolt back in place. Tighten the bolt with a wrench, don't turn the filter. Make sure the one or two sealing o-rings on the bolt are in good shape and don't over-tighten the bolt, it's only threading into the filter.
Crank the engine; it should catch immediately; keep the engine at 1000-1500 RPM while any remaining air bubbles are pushed through the system. Check for leaks immediately and after a day or two of driving.
Jeremy
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"Buster" in the '95
Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970
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