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I say what others in this thread have said (replace hollow screw o-ring, etc) - plus the following:
First get the radiator hose out of the way by loosening the hose clamps and disconnecting it from the engine side only - at that point I turn it up perpendicular to keep from losing much coolant. Then get the brake booster vacuum hose out of the way (I just disconnect it from the vacuum pump)
Throw a couple of shop rags in the space under the canister housing, remove the old canister (grip it with one hand and and turn out the hollow screw at the top) and then carefully maneuver the full fresh canister into place threading the hollow screw into the canister until snug - the torque spec is 25 Nm. Reattach everything in place. Before cranking, crack each injector line, stuff rags around the injector line nuts, disconnect the glow plug relay (black box on the driver side fender well) get in the car, press the accelerator to the floor, and turn the engine over for 10 seconds, stop for twenty seconds, repeat for a total of 3 or 4 cycles of turning it over. Collect the rags, torque the injector line nuts to spec, and reconnect the glow plug relay. Crank the engine and enjoy a smooth idling, airless fuel supply circuit.
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