Latief,

Thanks for posting that sequence.

First of all, you should be rotating the adjuster clockwise (retard position)before installing the chain. by rotating it counter clockwise, you are advancing the adjuster.

Second....are you saying that with both dowel holes perfectly lined up with the top surface of the head, and the chain fully installed, there is signifant slack between the two cams? ....This should not be....

Keep in mind that the valve springs will force the cams to turn off of their markers. But as long as the tensioning of the chain corrects their positions realtive eachother, you will be fine. You really have to visualize this part in your head. (I had a hard time at first)

Try to rotate the crankshaft approximately 5-10 degrees counter-wise to allow more slack to install the chain. Then snug it back-up after the chain is installed to remove the slack from the driver's side of the engine. Then install newly re-inserted tensioner and rotate to check for accuracy.

It will be hard to get the 0IT mark on the harmonic balancer to line up while the cams are perfectly aligned, but this will be an indicator of the stretch of the chain. The important part is that the cams line-up almost perfectly with each other. When they are aligned, look down to check the harmonic balancer. If you are less than 3-8 degrees off the 0IT mark, you are probably properly timed. If your variation is more, you are probably one tooth off.

To start off, just remove the upper timing cover and rotate the engine by hand/starter until the exhaust cam dowel hole is perfectly lined-up . Then check the intake cam to make sure it is also lined-up. If these are not currently lined-up with each other, then you will know you need to re-time.