I've done two without removing anything but the bolts, with success. My leaks were very obvious and intolerable. I had to grind the end of an appropriately sized Allen wrench to get it short enough to get it into one of the heads. I thoroughly cleaned the adjacent area before starting. The heads of the bolts must be cleaned out and the Allen wrench seated completely or you risk fouling the most difficult one to get at. They are very stubborn to break loose. Once they are removed, I recall you can get about 1/2 inch clearance between the housing and the block, barely enough to get a long razorblade tipped scraper in there. I used lots of brake cleaner with the stream directed inside the gasket area so the excess would drain out and hopefully carry bits of gasket with it after scraping. The old gaskets came off in large pieces however, so I don't think there was much risk. When I had the gasket surface as clean and dry as I could get it, I slipped the new gasket in and started two of the bolts...a somewhat tedious and sketchy procedure. I did not use any sort of sealant on the gasket. Some oil will always dribble across the bottom of the mating surface. It didn't seem to matter. Yes, this is all done on your back with oil and brake cleaner dripping in an inconvenient pattern relative to your face. Wear goggles. I changed oil and filter not too long after the job, just in case some bits got loose. It is a difficult and rewarding repair, but I would want to shoot myself if it didn't work and had to be redone. I guess I got lucky...good luck!

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1983 CD
1958 Studebaker Packard (being resuscitated)