Quote:
Originally Posted by rsieracki
input shaft seal... right or wrong way to face it for installation? the old once was in pieces (hmmm the source of the leak in that area?) so i couldnt tell the orientation. Also, whats the proper procedure for installing the input shaft seal? i think mine went in a tad cockeyed
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I didn't touch that so I can't help you there. If the input shaft seal is leaking, it would leak into the timing chain cavity, not outside the engine. An external leak, such as down the side of the block towards the engine mount arm is more likely a bad o-ring between the IP and block.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsieracki
also i was "pleasently" surprized my the pint or quart of oil i got all over myself and bench and tools while dissassemblying.... do i need to refill the ip somehow or will that be done upon startup?
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I don't remember what the FSM says about this. I would fill as much as possible through the RIV port as you would a differential. Fill it on the bench with the port facing up then set the IP to vertical to let excess oil drip out the port before installing the locking tool for installation.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rsieracki
also... when i locked and removed the pump my engine timing is about 17-18 degrees (that is where the slot lined up the best. is this ok of do i need to borrow the RIV tool?
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The A-B light makes quick work of setting IP timing but you can get decent results by hand. Get everything back in place and start the engine to ensure everything's at least as good as it was prior to pulling the IP. Then worry about IP timing. In fact if IP timing is that far off, check chain elongation by either eyeballing the cam sprocket alignment mark or the FSM method of dial gauge on the cam lobe. No sense setting IP timing on a chain that's out of spec.
Sixto
87 300D