I believe they are the same as the 220D (72) I've replaced them in -- two on each side, correct?

If so, just jack up the car in the front and support the frame on jackstands, allowing the subframe to hang down.

Remove the through bolts for the mounts on one side -- have a big screwdriver handy to hold the nut plate in the slot in the frame if they are really stuck and/or the nut plate breaks off. Do ONLY one side at a time, please, else the engine falls out!.

On the first side, the subframe may sag down enough to pry the old mounts out of the subframe without help. If not, you need a LARGE prybar (5 ft min) to lever the frame down while your assistant (or vice versa) prys the old ones out and gets the new ones in. Coat them with silicone spray or dishwashing detergent as they have to slide into the recesses, and it is a very bad idea to get your fingers in there.

Insert bolts and the supplied new nut plates and partially tighten.

Move to the other side -- you will definitely need the prybar on this side. Remove and insert the mounts as for the first side. Keep your hands out from between the frame and subrame -- there is enough pressure from the mounts to damage your fingers if the prybar slips.

Tighten the bolts completely when both sets of bushings are in place.

The old bushings may be pretty well stuck, especially if oil ran down on them much. They get really soft and sticky then.

Check your engine mounts, too -- when I replaced the subframe mounts, the subframe sat enough lower that the AC compressor started banging on the inner fender seam!

Peter

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1972 220D ?? miles
1988 300E 200,012
1987 300D Turbo killed 9/25/07, 275,000 miles
1985 Volvo 740 GLE Turobodiesel 218,000
1972 280 SE 4.5 165, 000 - It runs!