Quote:
Originally Posted by tangofox007
Could you quote a MB publication that makes said recommendation? None of the service manuals that I possess recommend for or against rotor machining.
How is the "bearing hassle" avoided when replacing with new?
A loud, metal-on-metal squeal should provide plenty of advance warning prior to "piston departure."
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If you decide to turn the rotors and put 'em back on, just to swap 'em out again relatively soon, by all means. I cannot however, locate anything from MB right now. If they need turning, they may be warped, meaning to turn them down to flatten them out. Most folks don't access to a lathe, (the OP mentioned mounting them on a lathe was time consuming, I mean "a real pain") so simply replacing them would be prudent.
You don't avoid the bearing hassle when installing a new rotor, but why do this twice at short intervals? You have to go through the hassle putting a nearly too thin rotor too.
My first MB blew a front bearing at interstate speeds, seemingly because the fella that put 'em on didn't go by the book. Cost me $1100 to have it corrected. The rears do not have such an issue, it's simply unbolt the caliper and remove the rotors.
It's your call to take chances with the braking system. I don't know how much extra is built into the thicknesses, but I would rather replace a close to too thin rotor than risk a potential caliper piston disengagement. I wouldn't trust a caliper once that happened, just more money to be spent than otherwise budgeted.