Part 2

I still have more work to do, but I hope I have given some of you enough info to have the confidence to dig in and check part by part and system by system so you don’t keep throwing new parts at it until it runs again.

If anyone can tell me where the idle microswitch wires go I would be grateful. I really should have put the switch back in the game once I got the car in the 14.x to 1 AF range but I wanted to see if the car would cold start and I had to clean up. It did cold start right away this am, but I had no real desire to get back in there just yet in case the warm start problems and the rich idle came back with the switch back in line.

Don’t be scared to adjust the fuel distributor or the EHA. It’s really just like setting the CO/Idle..with a few more steps. And save your money on injectors. Just because they are “only” $20 is no reason not to clean and test them yourself first. You can put a few drops of oil in them and test the “crack open” point with an air compressor and a rubber tipped nozzle. Just keep cranking the regulator up until they open. A few drops of carb cleaner and 70 psi should clean and show you pattern. I always run oil through my injectors when I’m done cleaning and flowing them if I’m not going to use them right away.

Hope that helps.
Note on pumps. Mine were frozen by varnished gas, so I put them in a cup of fuel for a couple hours and then fed them 12 volts. They slowly freed up and started spinning but flow was horrible so I took one apart. There is a small disc deep down in there with some sort of lining on the inner surface. The one I took apart had worn through the lining / coating and had also worn the metal. I didn’t dig anymore and assumed the pump had lost clearance in that area allowing the pressure to drop off, so I just bought new pumps. Based on the rubber boots on the connections, it looked like the pumps were original. The boots fell apart when I tried to pull them back to remove the wires.