The part number is listed in the posts above. Part 1 of the DIY is at this link. This covers removal of the lower dash panel so you can access the ignition switch. Don't get blood on the dash like I did.

Here is the second part of the procedure, which I never posted as promised in Part 1 (sorry!). This applies to 1996 USA models only. It might apply to other parts of the world, I don't know. It does not apply to the 1997 E300D as that model got the $500 electronic switch, more's the pity.

Disconnect the battery negative cable as a safety precaution.

To unscrew the ignition switch bezel, you need a special US$50 Mercedes tool, 639 589 01 07. You may be able to use a pair of needle-nose pliers, just don't booger up the dash covering and then blame me!

The key must be in position 1 and must never, never, never be moved until the whole thing is back together. If you violate this rule, the ignition switch locks internally and cannot be fixed or so Mercedes says. I would tend to believe that.

If you use a bare key without your entire household key ring hanging from it, the lock will be much easier to remove. (The key must stay in the lock as it is removed from the dash.)



Remove the cable from the ignition switch assembly.



With the cable out of the way, use two small screwdrivers or pin punches to depress the two spring-loaded pins that hold the switch assembly on the steering lock. The steering lock stays in the car.



With the pins pushed in, the ignition switch module can be pushed forward (towards the front of the car) and come out of the steering lock. Now you can unscrew the transmission lock cable.



The assembly consists of the ignition switch and a plastic "sleeve."



Follow the instructions in the next picture to remove the switch from the sleeve. The sleeve doesn't have to be replaced and is also expensive so you don't want to break it in the process. The lock stays in the sleeve and the key stays in the lock. Make sure you take pictures so you can put the new switch back exactly as the old one came out including being in position #1.



I never got an explanation from the dealer as to the change in part numbers for the ignition switch for my '96 E300D. I brought the old switch with me when I went to the dealer. They ended up finding the replacement switch listed for another car, I don't remember which, possibly an S-class. For my car they found in EPC the 1997 electronic switch which is (a) wrong for my car and (b) US$500.



You have to move a plastic piece from the old switch to the new one.



I discovered after buying the new switch that the old one simply had burned contacts and was repairable. I took the switch apart and buffed the brass (copper alloy?) contacts. The repaired old switch now lives in my spare parts box.

Put the new/repaired switch in the sleeve and make sure it locks in place. Reattach the transmission lock cable. Put the assembly back into the steering lock. The upper pin may be hard to get depressed. Both pins must pop back into place. Make sure they do. Put the electrical cable back on the switch. Screw the bezel back on. Before putting the lower dash cover back, try the switch (mechanically) to make sure it works properly. Then reconnect battery negative and try it electrically.

I think that's it. Anyone spotting errors please advise so I can edit. No warranty is expressed or implied. YMMV.

Jeremy

__________________

"Buster" in the '95

Our all-Diesel family
1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car
2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car
Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022)
Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762
"Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz."
-- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970